‘This was a fashion picture that, in the undressed version, becomes a quintessentially Newton picture,’ says Quinn.įor the ‘X-ray’ series for Van Cleef & Arpels, Newton led a string of models to a radiologist to see ‘what was going on under all the flesh’. ‘In doing so, he earned himself a reputation as one of the most important photographers of the 20th century.’Īmong Newton’s roster of iconic images for French Vogue is the 1975 campaign for Yves Saint Laurent’s tuxedo nicknamed ‘Le Smoking’, which depicts an androgynous woman with slicked-back hair in a dimly lit Parisian alley. With his controversial scenarios, hyper-sexualised imagery and models who combined beauty, eroticism and strength, ‘Newton subverted the traditional conventions of fashion photography’, explains Christie’s specialist Jude Quinn. It was during his 25-year collaboration with Paris Vogue that Newton firmly established his international reputation and defined his signature style: highly stylised and erotically charged black-and-white photographs that embraced elements of glamour, fashion, erotica, portraiture and documentary, while flirting with provocative themes such as voyeurism. Newton ‘subverted the traditional conventions of fashion photography’ From Australia, the couple moved to London for a short period, before in 1961 settling in the fashionable Marais district of Paris. In Australia, Newton served five years with the Australian army and met his wife June Brunell, also a photographer, who later took up the name Alice Springs. There he worked briefly for The Straits Times, before leaving for Melbourne in 1940. In 1938, with Jews facing increasing hostility in Germany, Newton’s parents moved to South America, while Helmut set sail for China, disembarking en route in Singapore. He arrived at Paris Vogue via Singapore, Australia and London Photo above: Rue Aubriot, Paris Collections, from the White Women series, 1975© Estate of Helmut Newton See also on in English:Film and the covers of Vogue ParisHelmut Newton and his womenThe opening night of the Helmut Newton exhibition at the Grand Palais The work of legendary fashion photographer Helmut Newton comes to California's Annenberg Space for Photography, in a retrospective on until September 8.2. Rediscover a selection of iconic images from White Women, Sleepless Nights and Big Nudes, the first three books by Helmut Newton, who passed away in 2004, as well as a documentary shot by his wife, June, who also photographed under the name Alice Springs. Along with more than 100 other large-scale prints, fans of the German photographer's work Stateside can see these images in Los Angeles right now, at the Annenberg Space for Photography as an exhibition first shown in the US in Houston moves to the West Coast. Taken on the Paris street on which the photographer lived between 1961-1977, the provocative black and white pictures were to go down in fashion history as reference images for his unique aesthetic. Helmut Newton took his iconic shot of a Saint Laurent tuxedo-clad model smoking on rue Aubriot for Vogue Paris back in 1975, alongside a second, featuring the same girl kissing a naked woman.
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